Wood Bat Guide

 

Bat knobs generally have a varying degree of taper to them, from no taper (traditional) to an extreme flare.

No-knob bats have an old school look and feel, and offer a greater degree of control, but might not be as comfortable to some people.

Extreme flare knobs offer a good counterbalance on thicker handled bats, we recommend ordering a bat that is .5” longer than you normally would, as you will tend to choke up on it more due to the design of the knob.

Puck knobs act as a counterbalance on top of a normal knob and can be added to any bat. these knobs are becoming more popular amongst professional players. 

 Handle Thickness is classified according to the following specs:

Very Thin - .87" - .89"
Thin - .90" - .92" (29/32")
Medium - .93" - .95" (15/16")
Thick - ≥.96" (≥31/32"

Maple is the hardest wood for bats. 
It is the most forgiving and most recommended.
Maple is by far the most popular bat amongst professional players.

Pros:
Harder, more dense piece of wood.
Stronger, doesnt flake, last longer.

Cons:
Shatters when it breaks.

Ash is more flexible. This flexibility generates more whip through the zone. 
More whip means a higher swing speed. This creates a trampoline effect when you make contact thus increasing travel distance.
Ash will feel closer to an aluminum bat when you make solid contact. 
Ash will need to be hit on the long grain to prevent flaking as it is not as durable as maple or birch.

Pros:
More flexible than maple.
The look... You cant beat the look of a good ash bat.

Cons:
Not as durable as maple.
Prone to flaking if not hit on the long grain.

Birch is a good in-between of maple and ash.
However, birch does require a break-in period, so it will not be game ready out of the wrapper.It is more durable than ash, but not as dense as maple.

Pros:
More durable than ash.
More flexible than maple.

Cons:
Requires a break-in period.
Birch currently is having stock issue making it harder to source.
Generally more expensive.